“The Little Eldons”

Part 2 of 4

Pyramid Mountain

Day 2 - Bowl Camp to Pyramid Mountain

Date: 16 April 2022

Photo credits: Ben Wells, Tracey Orr, Simon Kendrick, Jess McDonald

Today would be the longest day of our multi-day adventure to the Little Eldons. I joked with friends on our return to civilisation that walking to the actual pyramids in Egypt would have been easier than reaching Pyramid Mountain. Obviously that’s not true, but this is a mountain that should not be underestimated. Mind you, for all the day’s trials, it is also the adventure that rewarded us with fantastic views, including fiery red and yellow skies as we returned to camp chased by darkness.

With shorter daylight hours now reducing our walking window, Bender and I were eager to set off at around 7am. All the research I had done indicated that Pyramid Mountain was going to be a tough beast, with a generous distance to cover from and back to camp, numerous steep climbs and intermittent scrub bashing. I had a feeling it was going to be a long day. In the end we set off around 8:45am, fatigue from the day before meant we were all a bit slow to get moving. My biggest tip for Pyramid Mountain is give yourself plenty of time - set off at first light especially if walking in the middle half of the year.

The four of us set off in a north-westly direction across the bowl, large mounds of Pineapple grass squelching under our feet as we dodged the odd deep hole and small water pools. Once across we would look for a suitable point to head into the bush and start the steep but thankfully short climb up to the ridgeline just east of Rocky Hill.

The pad we were using across the bowl abruptly disappeared (the theme for this trip!) so whilst Ben, Simon and Jess skirted around a small group of trees looking for its return, I ducked into the scrub and was rewarded with re-finding the pad and a small piece of ribbon.

Our legs and lungs got an early morning wake up call as we climbed steeply up, switching between pleasantly manageable open sections of Pineapple grass and bands of tight, head high scrub. At times the pad was no more than a water drain, but it was still a pad and it allowed us to cover the lower two-thirds of the climb quickly and without much fuss. It was only as we neared the final third of the climb that things got interesting.

Scoparia and other dense alpine vegetation had seemingly reclaimed whatever pad or pads might have once been present, so we took turns trying to push through or weave around it, looking for clear patches of Pineapple grass to lessen the effort. This first ascent took rather more time than any’d expected, but the more times we climbed from camp to the top of the ridge, or descended down it, the easier it became to read the scrub and avoid the worst of it.

It was a choose-your-own-adventure-type climb, with the only real stickler being cliffs to the west that absolutely must be avoided. Aiming for the semi-flat saddle at the base of Rocky Hills north-eastern spur worked well for us.

Once on the ridge the walking was much easier. A well trodden path headed north-east in the direction of Pyramid Mountain. Often used by walkers leaving the main Eldon Range further north, but just as good for those of us heading in the opposite direction.

Above the grey clouds were now lifting, so we could appreciate views of the delightful plateaus and valleys below. Most of the surrounding mountain tops were still in mist, but ahead we could see almost as far as the tip of the second hill - officially unnamed but colloquially known as Junction Hill (elevation 1120m) - that we would climb before changing our bearing to a south-easterly one.

With Jess and I out front and Simon and Ben bringing up the rear so they could stop for photos, we meandered along, our pace unhurried as the walking was easy at this stage. The obvious pad winding through low vegetation and over playful rocky outcrops lulled us into a false sense of security, our brains mistakenly thinking it would be this easy-going all the way. A gentle climb along the open ridgeline bought us to the top of “Hill 1173”. (To impart a little more detail I will identify the unnamed hills by their elevation above sea level. )

We began our descent from Hill 1173 using the short gravel paths between the increasingly tall vegetation. The further we descended, the higher the scrub around us became. The drop was quite steep and I knew it would be an unwelcome sting in the tail on the return journey! In places the baurea and other scrub disguised the pad, so it was a matter of looking “through” the scrub to keep it under our boots.

Patches of fungi began to appear at our feet - thanks to the damp environ - so we made the most of stopping to look at them and snap some photos, always careful not to tread on those that scattered themselves on the pad.

As we reached the bottom of the first climb the forest around us changed. Spindly trees lined the pad and long tendrils of Cutting grass tried to catch our feet. The short climb up towards the next high point (1120m) was slightly steeper, but we were all grateful to just be on a good, clear pad. Known within local bushwalking circles as Junction Hill, as walkers often egress the main Eldon Range via Five Duck Tarn to this point before heading south to the Lyell Highway.

Parts of the bush were cut back decades ago, and while such behaviour on unofficial tracks isn’t tolerated these days, the extra pairs of boots that pass through each summer help to keep the scrub in check. Pushing through the dense tea tree and other vegetation that lines either side would not be fun.

As we again gained some height, the bush surrounding us changed too. Ankle high coral fern, cushion plants, and the button and pineapple grasses were spongy under our feet. It was here that we got our first proper look of Pyramid Mountain to our southeast - and a reality check of how far we still had to go!

Between us and Pyramid Mountain’s summit were at least two more saddles to descend and climb out of, but worse from here, the summit seemed to be protected by increasing thick scrub. The joys! Oh well, we could only hope that it was less dense than it appeared. How wrong we were!

We picked up our pace a little - well as much as we could when we were surrounded by such beauty. It was hard not to stop and marvel at the imposing presence of High Dome off to our North. It appearing tantalisingly close. Eldon Bluff constantly commandeered our eyes and cameras too. With so much surrounding beauty it is difficult to rush through such areas, so we didn’t even try. We knew it would be a long day and if we were returning in the dark, so be it.

When you are exploring the more isolated areas of Tasmania, its easy to feel as if you might be the only humans in the world. However, half a dozen stick poles of natural timber leading up Hill 1129 indicated that perhaps once upon a time, a more defined route existed in the area? Other than these weathered old poles, we were now on our own. The pad that had led us for most of the trip thus far was non-existent.

From here on in we would rely on GPS - and line of sight where possible - to stick to the highest points of the ridgeline. I cannot stress enough that this is not the place for inexperienced navigators.

Cresting Hill 1129 we surveyed the way forward. We would need to negotiate a section of properly dense, head high vegetation to reach the saddle below Pyramid Mountain. Then it appeared we would re-enter forest at the base of the climb and eventually hit everyone’s favourite - walls of scoparia. Only after that would we feel the sweet, sweet sensation of gravel and low vegetation under our boots for the final pinch to the summit. Job’s on!

Ben led initially, using his strength and height to push a path through the scrub. Woody, thick scoparia resisting his determined efforts. When he tired, Jess or I took over. We girls would weave our way around, rather than pushing through and then giggle as the boys would get stuck in our hobbit tracks. If the going was this tough and we had the benefit of momentum as we were going down hill then imagine what this section would be like on the return - insert crying emoji here!

Even though it seemed like a long time, it was probably only about 15 minutes of fighting through the scrub before we entered the magnificent forest at the base of Pyramid Mountain. It was everything forest should be. Green and furry. Twisted limbs of ancient trees reaching in every direction. Mosses and lichens covered the ground and our friends the magic mushrooms were back. Varying fungi could be seen just about everywhere.

We were now like four children playing that game where you can’t step on cracks in the pavement. But our cracks were the delicate fungi at our feet. It would be a treat indeed to spend a few days camped in this glorious forest just taking in the sights. Our pace slowed again as we enjoyed the fungi show.

Ducking and weaving through the tree limbs, we climbed ever higher. Each time we would poke our heads out the forest we would dive back soon after, as the scoparia and really thick vegetation flanking the forest would make the journey much harder. We settled on using the more open and navigable forest for as long as possible before making a beeline for the summit.

Our hunch to use the forest paid off well. After a brief section of thick scoparia, the sound of gravel crunching under our boots was very welcome. From here it was only a matter of following them steeply upwards towards the summit. We had made it!

The sun was shining, the views were mesmerising and we were a wee bit exhausted! It was time to take a load off our feet, get some food in and enjoy a few minutes being in awe of the world we live in. Often the things we work hardest for in life are the most appreciated. Pyramid Hill certainly had us earning our late lunch.

We stared out over the lumpy mountainous terrain that is our home state. Frenchmans Cap rose in the distance, Goulds Sugarloaf was temptingly closeby and of course the Eldons Range to our north stole the show. Although we had a long way to return back to camp, in these few precious moments none of that mattered.

A pair of Wedge-tailed eagles soared above us, as we started the descent from the summit. It was around 2:15pm and we knew we would probably lose the battle with light, that much was certain. What wasn’t certain was how much walking in the dark we would end up doing. Better get a wriggle on!

Yes, we would be quicker on the return journey as we need not stop for so many photos, but Pyramid Mountain is that sort of walk where the return journey has as much climbing as the way out to the summit! Our aim was to at least reach the ridgeline past the 1120m Hill before darkness hit and preferably even the top of the 1173m Hill.

Back down through the friendly fungi filled forest we went. Down through the short band of scrub below it. Across the open plain and then up we pushed through the scoparia to the top of Hill 1120m. Racing twighlight - and winning so far.

Ben and I had made a deal that if I navigated back from the summit to the final big climb up Hill 1173m, he would carry my day pack up the short punchy climb. I quickly agreed to the deal because my tired body was dreading that hill, but my mind was still going strong enough to navigate.

It wasn’t till half way up the climb I remembered our deal! I finished the climb up with my pack and then duly handed it over to Bender. I would enjoy the flat section, sans pack! After all, a deal’s a deal!

We reached the top of Hill 1173 at around 5:30pm, so had made good time. From here we were back on easy-to-follow pads almost all the way back to camp, so even if we lost light we should have no issues staying on course. We stopped for a few moments at the small tarns on the plateau, and refilled out water containers and enjoyed a quick snack.

As our band of weary walkers continued on for the final push, the universe decided to send us a special treat for our efforts: it seemed like suddenly the sky lit up on fire. As the sun was sinking over the Eldons and Western Ranges, it combined with the whisps of broken low cloud giving the appearance of flames. Like the heavens were lighting a spark! Wowee! Had we not set off late that morning, we would have missed natures light show. Photos simply do not do this moment justice. We all stopped in our tracks to appreciate the fire in the sky around us.

To be here - while nature showed us why we humans are so insignificant - was a surreal moment. Sunsets may be fleeting but the memories of time spent with friends in the mountains never is.

Pulling out our head torches in preparation for the fast advancing darkness, we continued on. In the end we only needed them for the drop off the saddle, which other than a few scrubby bits proved much easier downhill. Tired but content, we reached the tents around 10 hours after we had set off. Tomorrow would be an early start and another mentally and physically challenging day, but for now the fire in the sky had made it all worthwhile.